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Introduction

In 2024, Andy went to Japan from May 6 - May 29. The dropdown menus at the top, and links at the bottom of each page, take you to Andy's photos and experiences. The cities and sites are arranged in approximately the same order as I visited them. You can read my Notes with tips, tricks, and best travel practices below, or you can begin the slideshow with the Nikko Photos.

Notes

If you are going to Japan (especially), or anywhere else abroad, READ THESE NOTES. I know there's a lot but you will thank me (I hope) for the practical advice it contains. All the little things really do add up to unnecessary inconvenience and frustration. Notes from the 2010 trip are seperate, most of them are probably still relevant, but they aren't as practical as the advice below.

• Don't forget to purchase travel insurance. Various packages cover various problems including cancelled or changed flight, lost luggage, hotel/airbnb done wrong, illness, injury, rental car damage, dead relatives, etc. Be aware that you must purchase the travel insurance within 30-45 days of flight/hotel purchase, depending on the vendor and package, although you might find a more expensive vendor without such a requirement. That means you'll need to pay for, or at least reserve, all your tickets within a 29-day window and then be prepared to purchase the travel insurance on or before day 30. I purchased a package from Seven Corners for $337.84 that covered all 3 weeks in Japan.
• Buy a JR Pass? Japan Rail is one of several train companies that transport passengers between and within cities. They're expensive. This will require you to chart your train travel in advance, figure out how much you would pay to ride all the JR-only trains during your stay, and compare that to the cost of the JR Pass for the same period of time (e.g., 2 weeks). I was riding other train brands in addition to JR and decided it would cost less to NOT buy the JR Pass. Transportation around Japan is expensive so if you plan to travel from city to city, bus and train fare is a budget line item unto itself.
• Most airbnb and house-turned-inn type places had hard mattresses, hard pillows, and provided a thick comforter but no cover sheet (so regulating heat was difficult). Other than one airbnb, the only comfortable beds were at real hotels. You've been warned.
• There are several ways to access WiFi in Japan. I paid for an Airalo brand e-sim (since my phone was e-sim capable). I felt that the price was right and I really enjoyed having WiFi everywhere, all the time, without carrying around a separate hot spot device. If there's two of you, two e-sims would be best. Families/groups with many people using WiFi should consider renting (in Japan) two hot spot devices, that way you can split into two groups and you both still have WiFi. It is best to purchase the e-sim, and install the appropriate e-sim app, before you leave the U.S. When you are on the plane to Japan, you can follow the instructions for setting up your phone to use the e-sim (beware, this is NOT a simple 3 step process). Theoretically, when you arrive in Japan, you will have instant WiFi. I ran into problems with the setup but tech support was responsive and helped me set it up correctly (I used either an airport or hotel WiFi for emailing tech support). I used WhatsApp via WiFi for texting and calls home so that I would not be charged extra by T-Mobile for international calls and text.
• Japan bans some medicines that are acceptable in the U.S. No matter what country you're from, be sure to check Japan's official website for banned meds.
• If you want to drive in Japan, you'll need to get an international driver's license before you go, read Japan's road rules, and probably other things that I'm not aware of.
• If you want to bicycle in Japan, you will be required to have bicycle insurance. Some bike rental shops will have insurance available but not all. One of my airbnb inns had a free bike to ride but didn't offer insurance. If you plan to bike a lot in Japan, I recommend you buy the insurance in advance to cover the time periods you'll be biking, or just cover the whole trip if you want to always have the option. And read Japan's road and bike rules.
• Japan's outlets accept U.S. plugs, so no converter is necessary. However, remember that your USB plugs need converters with standard prong sockets because most places I stayed did not have USB compatible power outlets.
• Install Google Translate and download the desired language (Japanese) to your phone so you don't need Internet to use it (I sometimes lost WiFi in big buildings or remote roads). In my experience, Google Translate's conversation mode was completely useless in Japan. Translating one speaker at a time while their mouth was inches from the mic worked better. The best use of Google Translate was having it translate what it saw through the camera. I used this mostly in museums and it also came in handy at stores when I wanted to know what a product's packaging said.
• Seasoned tourists may already know this but build rest time into your schedule. I thought of it before my trip but forgot to do it when I planned my schedule. I wore myself out completely and had to take one day per week (unscheduled) just sitting in my apartment/hotel room reading, napping, Interneting, etc. Luckily, I had prioritized the places I wanted to see while planning my schedule, so it was easy for me to skip the low priority places and rearrange the high priority ones. It could become inconvenient if you really need a rest but have a reservation you've already paid for, so plan ahead.
• Check every place you plan to go before you leave the U.S. to see if reservations are required. It can be easier and cheaper to reserve while in the U.S. rather than once you are in Japan. Places I discovered that require reservations are Katsura Imperial Villa (at least 3 days beforehand), kabuki performances, tea ceremonies, geisha experiences, some cat cafes, some restaurants at temples and gardens (like the ones serving traditional Buddist meals or green tea), and classes such as those where you learn to make chopsticks, mochi, doll painting, etc. All the classes I found unplanned while in Japan had plenty of space and there were two times when I came discovered a class in the morning and signed up for a session held 1-4 hours later. But some classes might not be so flexible.
• You COULD use the various train and bus websites to track down routes and times ... or you could just use Google Maps. It was always accurate for me. That said, whenever walking was included in my bus/train route, Google did not show my street level directions easily while I was walking. Usability was bad. If Google hasn't fixed it when you go to Japan, you can do the following. I know it's a hassle but it's super frustrating when the Public Transport directions tell you to walk someplace but it's difficult to keep the block by block instructions on your screen.
1. Request the entire door to door directions, with Public Transport selected, so you know the departure and arrival times, then plan accordingly. Don't forget to include some buffer time at each station (see below).
2. Cancel Public Transport directions and request directions from your start point to the station with Walk selected and head there.
3. When you arrive at the station, cancel that Walk directions and re-request Public Transport directions to your destination.
4. If there is significant walking to do after you get off the last bus/train, cancel the Public Transport directions and request Walk directions to the final destination.
• Always schedule an extra 15 minutes at every bus and train station (if you are scheduling by the hour). You may be delayed by long lines, difficulty buying your ticket, or trying to find what direction to walk within the station. I learned some Japanese to help me and I STILL spent more time in bus and train stations than I expected. I was not the only person who occasionally stood in the middle of the station with a frustrated, lost, and/or confused look on my face. Maybe I'm an idiot when it comes to public transportation in a foreign country and you'll do just fine. As long as you plan extra time for this sort of thing, you'll stay on schedule. And except in the smallest cities, buses and trains run every 15-30 minutes, so if you miss one, just wait a bit.
• If you care about UV rays and sunburns, and you should care, you have at least two choices:
1. Sunblock is the most commmon. For me, the benefit is that your hands are free but the disadvantages include the chemical scent, the need for re-application, and the hot sunlight is still oppressive.
2. UV protected umbrellas are less common but used occasionally by both men and women. For me, benefits of UV blocking umbrellas (parasols) are that they have no chemical scent, will protect you from Japan's frequent rain (you'll usually want to have an umbrella with you, anyway), and it provides shade so you're not as hot compared to the sunblock folks. Disadvantages include having to hold it in your hand and occasionally getting funny looks from other people (who look overheated because they don't have shade). You can probably tell which method I favored after I purchased and tried a UV blocking umbrella in Japan. Rigging your backpack to hold your umbrella for you sounds like a good idea, but it won't work because you are constantly readjusting the direction and angle of your parasol as you and the sun move about. However, having a pocket or clip on the outside of your backpack for easy umbrella storage and access would be primo. Umbrellas that fold down small enough to fit in a purse are light and portable, but also get blown around and inverted quite easily by the wind. A UV-protection, anti-wind umbrella with wind vents and a long handle (so your whole hand is holding plastic) will be the most comfortable and easiest to use. If you buy a specialized umbrella, you will also want to have your own waterproof umbrella bag (to keep water from dripping on the floor) so staff don't force you to leave your umbrella in the umbrella rack outside the building. Trust me, if I had come to Japan with the right tools, my journey would have been more comfortable and less frustrating.
• Most Japanese historical sites are recent reconstructions/reproductions. Some sites have a building, pagoda, statue, or hallway that are "original" but expect over 75% of everything you see to be reproduced less than 100 years old. They will tell you that they used descriptions in old documents, paintings, original engineering plans, excavated examples, and existing authentic original buildings to ensure authenticity - but that castle, garden, temple, or statue is most likely the result of modern construction. As I toured the castle grounds, the guide told me that there were originally buildings in places where there aren't any now, and that the grounds (walking path material, path placement, plant types, yard design) would have looked quite different back in the day. I don't say this to ruin your fun but so you can truly appreciate when the brochure or tour guide tells you that a building, statue, or garden path is an authentic original.
• Always have a hand towel on you to dry your hands if the bathroom does not provide (or is out of) paper towels or blow dryers. This happened often enough that I was thankful for my hand towel.
• Purchase indoor-only slippers after arriving and carry them with you. Why? Many castles, temples, other historical buildings, and some restaurants require you to take off your outdoor shoes. Walking around in socks or barefoot on the hard floors, stairs, and uneven surfaces will NOT be kind to your feet. And do you really want to wear the same indoor shoes that other tourists have put on (when provided)? Most people just suffer the lack of shoes, but on one of my last days in Japan, I saw a lady pull out some indoor slippers and the staff let her wear them around the building. Brilliant! But it was too late for me to steal the idea. It might not work at every location but if you follow my advice, your feet will thank you (and hopefully you will thank me in return).
• Always have plenty of cash on you. Many places accept standard credit/debit cards (including Discover) but others do not. Many restaurants and stores also accept the same pay cards (Suica, PASMO, etc) as buses and trains so you can use them like preloaded debit cards but if you lose your pay card, you lose the money on it.
• Don't forget to leave room in your suitcase for souvenirs, not only includes gifts but also packaged food that you'd like to bring back and eat/share in America. Consider that you can purchase a toothbrush, toothepaste, anti-deoderant, etc. in Japan and leave it there when you return, if you need to. FYI, almost every airbnb and hotel in Japan gives you a freebie toothbrush and toothpaste. Japanese are VERY picky about smell so using their toothpaste and deoderant ensures that you do not offend them. Leave your perfume and cologne at home unless you want to purposely offend Japanese nostrils. Clothing, umbrellas, etc. are more expensive but if you budget for it, nothing prevents you from taking from home (or buying in Japan) and then leaving clothes and toiletries behind to make room for gifts. I ruined and threw away a pair of older shoes, an older shirt, and 3 pairs of socks while I was there, which freed up more room for gifts.
• Bicyclists are a hazard (personally verified). They will ride quickly down the sidewalk, narrowly missing you as they weave through pedestrians. ALWAYS check behind you before you make a turn on a sidewalk, shift to the side, or suddenly stop to take a picture, check your phone map, or whatever. While I was in Japan, their legislature was working on new national bicycle laws because of the increased number of bike and pedestrian accidents.
• When I was in Japan in May, the sun rose before 5 am and set early. Before you go, research sunrise and sunset times if that makes a difference to you or your schedule.
• Japanese toilets are famous. Here's my experience. I never encountered an old squat toilet. I encountered a few "normal" U.S. style toilets. Most toilets were the Japanese-style water-spraying style BUT not all of them had seat warmers and I only encountered one toilet that air-dried your tushy, so if you use the water spray, you'll still have to dry yourself off and, from personal experience, the toilet paper they use will NOT be satisfying. So have a tushy-drying towel handy if you plan to water-spray after using the toilet. On the plus side, I've been led to believe that water-spraying for at least 1 minute can leave you cleaner than just wiping with paper.
• Convenience stores ... are everywhere. In small towns, there is one within walking distance of any hotel or tourist spot. In big cities, there may be three within one block of each other. Many train and bus stations have at least one. The three main brands are Seven & I Holdings (7-11), Family Mart, and Lawson, but there are other smaller brands. They carry a variety of useful electronics, magazines, OTC drugs, and toiletries. They are also a great source of food, snacks, and drinks on the go. They carry a lot of the same items but they also each have different items. For example, only one of the three had yogurt and a different one of the three had American-style jelly beans. If you need anything, save time (your most valuable resource) by checking the nearest one or two convenience stores first before going out of your way to a supermarket, department store, etc.

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